P-05 //

Via Eureka

A new 8-pitch, 230 m multi-pitch climbing route on the Lagazuoi above Passo Falzarego (Dolomites), opened together with Lucas in autumn 2023.

Completed
  • Climbing
  • Route setting
  • Dolomites

In autumn 2023, Lucas and I opened a new multi-pitch route on the Lagazuoi above Passo Falzarego. It took us about four days of work, and we finished it on 15 October 2023. The result is an eight-pitch, 230 m route with a hardest pitch of 7a – around 6c obligatory, since the crux can be aided (6a+ A0).

  • Access: The wall can be seen from Passo Falzarego. The approach takes about 30 minutes.
  • Descent: Abseiling is possible, but hiking back to the car park (~40 minutes) is recommended.

Topo

PitchGradeLengthDescription
16a25 mEasiest pitch of the route.
26c40 mProbably the hardest free pitch: steep climbing on small holds. The hard sections are well protected.
36c40 mHard start, then again steep climbing on pockets.
46a+20 mVery exposed traverse with a steep vertical finish. The last steep part can be bypassed directly to the anchor.
56a30 m10 m of walking, then a steep vertical climb to the anchor below the big overhang.
67a (6a+ A0)20 mBig overhang right at the start (7a), followed by a technical slab (6b+).
76b+15 mShort, vertical and technical.
86a+40 mSteep climbing on good holds.

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